This is the only place in Pune where an ancient expression of art and culture has survived and in fact, managed to hang on in the modern world but at its own pace. Offering a range of cultural expressions, the Kumbhar Wada, situated in the city’s historic area of Kasba Peth, dates back to the fifth century. Many legends, myths, rituals and festivals are part of the unique culture of this area and attract a lot of tourists and documentary film makers. The ancient pottery makers’ space, which flourished during the times of Shivaji, the founder of Maratha empire, lives on with the younger generation adapting to the older values.
As we make our way around the old, winding gullies and enter the open courtyard of a potter’s home, the wheel can be heard whirring and rows of pots and artefacts can be seen on the shelves. The potter who is proud of his heritage invites us in and offers a cup of tea with a genuine smile. Ramesh, whose pottery business is well established, relates how long back, their Wada was near the banks of the Mutha River and how easy was it to get both water and soil.
But now shunted to the centre of the city, they have been pushed further as their potters’ workshop is in Mundhwa. However, they return home to sell their pots and ceramics of different shapes and colors, usually displaying them on the pavements. For generations now, they have been living and working here. Although surrounded by modernity, they have never craved the bright lights or the materialistic life, says one youngster who has followed the tradition.
Many people have come and gone, and Kumbhar Wada has seen many
invasions, conquests, plunder, looting but they have lived on to tell their unique tale of crafts and culture to the next generation. Having a strong identity, they live together in solidarity with a feeling of safety, and sharing open spaces with shared facilities. But for how long? Old timers hope that the government makes an effort to extend a helping hand and revive their tradition as there is no protection for them from modern land invaders, real estate planners and developers.
Presently, Kumhar Wada has no cafes, hotels or restaurants. The best time to visit this Wada is either during the Ganesh festival or Deepavali as the whole place is lively, lit with earthen lamps and many craftsmen display their ware in the interior labyrinths of an old city that has preserved its medieval character.
